Hallstadt

The city as seen from our boat ride

  Nestled deep in the Austrian Alps in the Salzkammergut region is a town called Hallstadt. World-renowned for its lake and mountain views, Hallstadt is a place rich in beauty and history. There is no easy way to get there – it took two hours for our large tour bus to weave around the steep mountains and lakeshores. The view as we pulled into the town was breathtaking. Hallstadt is home to only 900 people and is built at the base of a large salt mountain.

We took a boat ride around the lake then walked through the city with our lovely Austrian guide – an eighty year old woman who spoke no English but had a terrific sense of humor. The main square is very small, but also very beautiful. The cobblestone walkway, small fountain and ivy-covered buildings are consistent with the picturesque beauty. The town has two churches – one Catholic, one Evangelical – and both are adorned with beautiful wood and art works created by a nearby art school. Everything about the village is just as organic and poetic. Hallstadt is vaguely reminiscent of the Amish lifestyle; the inhabitants are clearly Austrian, but they put so much effort into sustaining the uniqueness of their lifestyle.

Creepy skull room

There is also a partially beautiful and partially gross tradition there. Because of a shortage of grave space and money, the people of Hallstadt established a system for handling their dead. Originally the dead are buried, but after 15 years or so, the remains are dug up and the skulls are put into the “Karner Haus.” All of the skulls in the house are painted with the name of the deceased plus other information usually found on a tombstone – including a wreath of flowers or ivy. I must say, it was the creepiest room I’ve ever been in.

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